Kodaikanal - Princess of Hills

Kodaikanal is one of the very popular and most sought after Honeymoon and holiday destination hill resorts in South India. This hill station stands 7200 feet above sea level and situated in upper palani hills of the westernghats near Madurai in Tamil Nadu. Kodaikanal is also popularly known as the princes of Hill Stations.

The cool and misty weather, the scenic beauty of the rolling hills and the wooded forest of Kodaikanal and its surroundings will mesmerize any visitor throughout the year. Walk through the wooded forests, row in the lake, bath in one of the splashing waterfalls, go for horse riding and cycling around the lake or simply admire the views.

Centred on a very pretty lake, Kodai rambles up and down hillsides with patches of shola forest, unique to the Western Ghats in South India, and evergreen broadleaf trees such as magnolia, mahogany, myrtle and rhododendron. Another plant speciality around here (in the grasslands) is the kurinji shrub, whose lilac-blue blossoms only appear every 12 years: next due date 2018.   

History of Kodaikanal

Kodaikanal is the only Hill Station in India developed by the Americans.

During 1821, Lieutenant B. S. Ward, a British surveyor was, the first European to visit Kodaikanal, who was on the lookout for a healthy place to live, for the foreign missionaries working in Madurai and the surrounding areas to escape from the summer heat and epidemics.

The early visitors to Kodaikanal, had to travel by horse, bullock cart or palanquin. The forest were infested by robbers and wild animals, and yet it became very popular with the elite families, because of the wonderful climate and clean air.

In 1834, the Collector of Madurai climbed up from Devadanapatti and built a small bungalow at Kodaikanal. By the second half of the 19th century, churches and other colonial structures started popping up in and around Kodaikanal. Examples of some beautiful structures are the Union Church built in 1895, and a large number of private bungalows.

In 1863, Sir Vere Hendry Levinge, the Collector of Madurai, created the 60 acres Kodai Lake by damming three streams flowing through. He stocked the lake with fish. He also brought the first boat from Tuticorin. A boat club was formed in Kodaikanal in 1890. Since May 1929, the club has permitted tourists to join the club as temporary members and avail of boating facilities.

Missionaries established church properties. Many of the ruling princes built summer holiday-homes. Clubs, school and hotels came up. Civic amenities were introduced. Kodaikanal developed slowly, but steadily. They also established the famous Kodaikanal International School.

The extension of the railway line from Chennai to Tirunelveli (598 kilometres) made Kodaikanal really popular. A station was built at Ammainayakkanur - 80 kilometresfrom Kodaikanal. (This was later renamed Kodai Road.) The first steam engine arrived in 1875 and made the journey to Kodaikanal far easier. Though construction of the road was completed in 1914, it was opened to the public only two years later - in 1916. And suddenly, Kodaikanal was thrown open to the general public and tourists started flocking the area in large numbers. 

Places to see

Coaker’s Walk

Prices: Admission ₹5, camera ₹10
Opening hours: 7am-6.30pm

Assuming it’s not cloaked in opaque mist, the valley views along paved Coaker’s Walk are superb. There’s no plastic allowed on the pathway, a rule flagrantly flaunted by locals, and a small observatory with telescope at the southern end. Start near Greenlands Youth Hostel or Villa Retreat – where stained glass in the nearby Church of South India (CSI) is stunning in the morning light – and the stroll takes all of five minutes. The 5km lake circuit is pleasant in the early morning when you can count the kingfishers before the tourist traffic starts. 

Sacred Heart Natural Science Museum

Prices: Admission ₹10
Opening hours: 9am-5pm

In the grounds of a former Jesuit seminary about 4km downhill east of town, this museum has a ghoulishly intriguing miscellany of flora and fauna put together over more than 100 years by priests and trainees. Displays range over bottled snakes, human embryos (!), giant moths, stuffed animal carcasses and black-and-white photos of solemn priests with huge snakes draped over them. You can also see some pressed kurinji flowers (Strobilanthes kunthiana) in case you're not around for their flowering. 

Bryant Park

Prices: Adult/child ₹20/10, camera/video ₹30/75
Opening hours: 9am-6.30pm

Near the start of Coaker’s Walk is Bryant Park , landscaped and stocked by the British officer after whom it’s named. Its main entrance is on the road surrounding the lake and is a 10-minute walk from the entrance to the boat club. Nicely maintained and a huge park. Their flower shows during summer are very famous.

Kodai Lake

If you are going in winter, go boating in the evening, as it's an amazing experience to boat through fog settling on the lake. The lake is very near the bus stand. This is a star shaped lake and walking around it during the night is one of the best walking experience you can have in your life. Be cautious that there are lot of dogs around this lake and some places are extremely dark. Walk between 6 and 7 pm, then head back to your room. 

Flowers of the Kurinji

Green Valley View/Suicide Point- has a more than 5000 ft steep drop from this point. The monkeys are a good attraction at this point. Renamed Green Valley View, apparently to prevent people from being lured to commit suicide. * Pillar Rocks - huge steep cliffs. Watch out for the cross at the top of the mountain hoisted by an English adventure enthusiast.

Silent Valley View

Devil's Kitchen - a cave known more to the locals, First being "Green Valley View" and "Pillar Rocks" and then finally "Guna Cave". Watch out for the deep hidden ravines. What would appear like mere dark gutters are actually a deep fall. Many unsuspecting people have fallen prey to the "devil's trap". So, watch your step!

Guna Caves

A cave which became very famous after the movie GUNA. Very steep and risky to get in. The public may not be allowed to enter this cave nowadays, though it's a very good place to take pics. But if you are not a professional spelunker, a trip to this cave may be your last. Getting back will be problem as it's very dark and there could be about a 90% chance of suffering a free fall.

Pine Forest

It's on the way to the guna cave. A great view of long, pine trees. You can go a little deep into the forest and be surrounded with numerous pine trees one after the other. Opportunities for some interesting photo shoots available! You can also buy fresh carrots and plum and local fruits from there.

Silver Cascade

It's a nice waterfall on the road side from kodai road to kodai kanal, just before 4-5 kms from kodai kanal. The cold water flows and it's really super to bathe in the cold water and travel in between the eucalyptus trees. If you are going to kodai kanal by private vehicle on the way, you can visit the place. Buy fresh carrots and some exotic veggies around here.

Old Suicide Point This place is about 5 minutes before the pine forest (the main/old pine forest I mean. In recent days tourists get down to see the pine forest in many places as an entire stretch is full of pine trees) while driving from the observatory side. You need to get down and walk towards the cliff. Here you will see a small pathway on the left side. If you take this path and walk for about 10 minutes you will reach the old suicide point. The view from there is simply breathtaking.

Bear Shola falls

This is a really beautiful water falls. But during some seasons there may not be any water there. But climbing up the falls is a good trek.

Wax Museum

Recently opened wax museum is situated near Green Valley View/Suicide Point.

Things to do

Cycling

Cycle around the lake and watch the clouds while they slowly descend onto the water; cycles are available for hire at the lake on an hourly basis. It is possible to cycle to other places although cycling one way will be difficult due to the hilly terrain. Do check the cycles before setting out.

Boating

Boating at the Kodai lake - paddle and row boats are available at the lake. Entrance is via the Kodaikanal Boat Club.

Trekking

Kodai offers several scenic trekking spots, including one which is to walk along the stream which goes to dolphin nose. Kodai tourist office has a trekking guide which is available for free there, which lists all the possible trekking routes and difficulty levels. The tourist office advises people to take guides and offers to provide them, although this is not necessary. An easy trek is the Perumalmalai trek which is the tallest mountain that area.

Horse Riding

Right near the front of the entrance to the boat club, you can rent a horse (with the trainer) to take you around the lake.

Weather

The climate of Kodaikanal is very pleasant and cool all round the year. Due to the high altitude the hill station enjoys a temperate subtropical climate. For the visitors who want to know about Kodaikanal, here is a briefing of what climate one might expect in the hill station.

The temperature in Kodaikanal varies between moderate to very cold. During the summer, the temperature varies between 11 and 20 degree centigrade. It is very soothing to be there during the summer months. 

During the winter season, Kodaikanal is very cold. The surface temperature during these months vary between 8 degrees and 17 degrees. During these months the temperature sometimes fall to the freezing point and beyond.

Kodaikanal experiences rain between the months of June and September. Rainfall in Kodaikanal is mainly due to the north retreating monsoon in this hill station. The average rainfall is about 1650 mm, annually.

The best seasons to visit Kodaikanal are the times between April and June and from September to October, when the Climate of Kodaikanal is at its very best. The surrounding is very colorful during these months.

How to get there

By plane: The closest airports to Kodaikanal are Trichy 150km, Madurai 120km and Coimbatore 175km.

By train: Nearest railway station is Kodai Road at a distance of 100km. From Kodairoad station, one has to travel only by road. Taxis are available for hire up to Kodaikanal but since these might the only mode of transport here, the prices are often not negotiable.

Another Railway station that is quite close is Dindigul Railway station. It is easier to come to kodaikanal using this station as it is a much bigger city. Once you get down at the Dindigul Railway station, you can get an autorickshaw for around ₹50 to come to the Dindigul bus stand. And from there, there are frequent buses to Vathlagundu from where there are many buses to Kodaikanal. Straight buses are available from Dindigul to Kodaikanal as well, but you might have to wait for an hour or so. It takes around 1 hour from Dindigul to Vathlagundu (Batlagundu) and then about 2 hours from Vathlagundu to Kodaikanal by bus.

By bus

Kodaikanal is about 90km from Dindigul city and there are plenty of buses plying from various parts of the state. Buses ply from Chennai, Pondicherry, Trichy, Madurai, Dindigul,Palani and Coimbatore.

Buses are available from Madurai (Arapalayam Bus stand) to Kodaikanal at regular timings. Note: There is no direct service between 15:00 and 17:30

By car: Reach Kodaikanal from Kodai Road (80km) for ₹1700 approx, Dindigul or Madurai and then take a cab/taxi to Kodaikanal. The drive from Kodai road takes approximately 2h while the drive from Madurai takes approximately 3.5h and from Dindigul it takes about 2h.

From Cochin/Kochi (Kerala) is 295km via the hill station of Munnar(kerala). The route to be taken is Kochi-Muvattupuzha-Kothamangalam-Adimali-Munnar-Devikulam-Poopara-Bodi-Theni-Kodaikanal which is the NH49 Kochi-Madurai.